It depends as much upon the judgment of the cook as on the materials
used to make a good pudding. Everything should be the best in the way
of materials, and a proper attention to the rules, with some practice,
will ensure success.
Puddings are either boiled, baked or steamed; if boiled, the materials
should be well worked together, put into a thick cloth bag, previously
dipped in hot water, wringing it slightly and dredging the inside
thickly with flour; tie it firmly, allowing room for it to swell;
drop it into a kettle of boiling water, with a small plate or saucer
in the bottom to keep it from sticking to the kettle. It should not
cease boiling one moment from the time it is put in until taken out,
and the pot must be tightly covered, and the cover not removed except
when necessary to add water from the boiling tea-kettle when the
water is getting low. When done, dip immediately in cold water and
turn out. This should be done just before placing on the table.
Or butter a tin pudding-mold or an earthen bowl; close it tight so
that water cannot penetrate; drop it into boiling water and boil
steadily the required time. If a bowl is used it should be well
buttered and not quite filled with the pudding, allowing room for it
to swell; then a cloth wet in hot water, slightly wringing it, then
floured on the inner side, and tied over the bowl, meeting under the
bottom.
To steam a pudding, put it into a tin pan or earthen dish; tie a cloth
over the top, first dredging it in flour, and set it in a steamer.
Cover the steamer closely; allow a little longer time than you do for
boiling.
Molds or basins for baking, steaming or boiling should be well
buttered before the mixture is put into them. Allow a little longer
time for steaming than for boiling.
Dumplings boiled the same way, put into little separate cloths.
Batter puddings should be smoothly mixed and free from lumps. To
ensure this, first mix the flour with a very small portion of milk,
the yolks of the eggs and the sugar thoroughly beaten together, and
added to this; then add the remainder of the milk by degrees, then the
seasoning, then the beaten whites of eggs last. Much success in making
this kind of pudding depends upon a strict observance of this rule;
for, although the materials may be good, if the eggs are put into the
milk before they are mixed with the flour, there will be a custard at
the top and a soft dough at the bottom of your dish.
All sweet puddings require a little salt to prevent insipidity and
to draw out the flavor of the several ingredients, but a grain too
much will spoil any pudding.
In puddings where wine, brandy, cider, lemon juice or any acid is
used, it should be stirred in last and gradually, or it is apt to
curdle the milk or eggs.
In making custard puddings (puddings made with eggs and milk), the
yolks of the eggs and sugar should be thoroughly beaten together
before any of the milk or seasoning is added, and the beaten whites of
eggs last.
In making puddings of bread, rice, sago, tapioca, etc., the eggs
should be beaten very light, and mixed with a portion of the milk,
before adding them to the other ingredients. If the eggs are mixed
with the milk, without having been thus beaten, the milk will be
absorbed by the bread, rice, sago, tapioca, etc., without rendering
them light.
The freshness of all pudding ingredients is of much importance, as one
bad article will taint the whole mixture.
When the freshness of eggs is doubtful, break each one separately
in a cup before mixing them all together. Should there be a bad one
amongst them, it can be thrown away; whereas, if mixed with the good
ones, the entire quantity would be spoiled. The yolks and whites
beaten separately make the articles they are put into much lighter.
Raisins and dried fruit for puddings should be carefully picked and,
in many cases, stoned. Currants should be well washed, pressed in a
cloth and placed on a dish before the fire to get thoroughly dry; they
should be then picked carefully over, and every piece of grit or
stone removed from amongst them. To plump them, some cooks pour
boiling water over them and then dry them before the fire.
Many baked pudding recipes are quite as good boiled. As a safe rule
boil the pudding twice as long as you would bake it; and remember
that a boiling pudding should never be touched after it is once put on
the stove; a jar of the kettle destroys the lightness of the pudding.
If the water boils down and more must be added, it must be done so
carefully that the mold will not hit the side of the kettle, and it
must not be allowed to stop boiling for an instant.
Batter should never-stick to the knife when it is sent to the table;
it will do this both when less than sufficient number of eggs is mixed
with it and when it is not cooked enough; about four eggs to the half
pound of flour will make it firm enough to cut smoothly.
When baked or boiled puddings are sufficiently solid, turn them out of
the dish they were baked in, bottom uppermost and strew over them
finely sifted sugar.
When pastry or baked puddings are not done through, and yet the
outside is sufficiently brown, cover them over with a piece of white
paper until thoroughly cooked; this prevents them from getting burnt.