Consommé, or Stock, forms the basis of all meat soups, and also of all
principal sauces. It is, therefore, essential to the success of these
culinary operations to know the most complete and economical method of
extracting from a certain quantity of meat the best possible stock or
broth. Fresh, uncooked beef makes the best stock, with the addition of
cracked bones, as the glutinous matter contained in them renders it
important that they should be boiled with the meat, which adds to the
strength and thickness of the soup. They are composed of an earthy
substance--to which they owe their solidity--of gelatine, and a fatty
fluid, something like marrow. Two ounces of them contain as much
gelatine as one pound of meat; but, in them, this is so encased in
the earthy substance, that boiling water can dissolve only the surface
of the whole bones, but by breaking them they can be dissolved more.
When there is an abundance of it, it causes the stock, when cold, to
become a jelly. The flesh of old animals contains more flavor than the
flesh of young ones. Brown meats contain more flavor than white.
Mutton is too strong in flavor for good stock, while veal, although
quite glutinous, furnishes very little nutriment.
Some cooks use meat that has once been cooked; this renders little
nourishment and destroys the flavor. It might answer for ready soup,
but for stock to keep it is not as good, unless it should be roasted
meats. Those contain higher fragrant properties; so by putting the
remains of roast meats in the stock-pot you obtain a better flavor.
The shin bone is generally used, but the neck or "sticking-piece," as
the butchers call it, contains more of the substance that you want to
extract, makes a stronger and more nutritious soup, than any other
part of the animal. Meats for soup should always be put on to cook in
cold water, in a covered pot, and allowed to simmer slowly for
several hours, in order that the essence of the meat may be drawn out
thoroughly, and should be carefully skimmed to prevent it from
becoming turbid, never allowed to boil fast at any time, and if more
water is needed, use boiling water from the tea-kettle; cold or
lukewarm water spoils the flavor. Never salt it before the meat is
tender (as that hardens and toughens the meat), especially if the meat
is to be eaten. Take off every particle of scum as it rises, and
before the vegetables are put in.
Allow a little less than a quart of water to a pound of meat and bone,
and a teaspoonful of salt. When done, strain through a colander. If
for clear soups, strain again through a hair sieve, or fold a clean
towel in a colander set over an earthen bowl, or any dish large enough
to hold the stock. As stated before, stock is not as good when made
entirely from cooked meats, but in a family where it requires a large
joint roasted every day, the bones, and bits and underdone pieces of
beef, or the bony structure of turkey or chicken that has been left
from carving, bones of roasted poultry, these all assist in imparting
a rich dark color to soup, and would be sufficient, if stewed as
above, to furnish a family, without buying fresh meat for the purpose;
still, with the addition of a little fresh meat it would be more
nutritious. In cold weather you can gather them up for several days
and put them to cook in cold water, and when done, strain, and put
aside until needed.
Soup will be as good the second day as the first if heated to the
boiling point. It should never be left in the pot, but should be
turned into a dish or shallow pan, and set aside to get cold. Never
cover it up, as that will cause it to turn sour very quickly.
Before heating a second time, remove all the fat from the top. If this
be melted in, the flavor of the soup will certainly be spoiled.
Thickened soups require nearly double the seasoning used for thin
soups or broth.
Coloring is used in some brown soups, the chief of which is brown
burnt sugar, which is known as caramel by French cooks.
Pounded spinach leaves give a fine green color to soup. Parsley, or
the green leaves of celery put in soup, will serve instead of spinach.
Pound a large handful of spinach in a mortar, then tie it in a cloth,
and wring out all the juice; put this in the soup you wish to color
green five minutes before taking it up.
Mock turtle, and sometimes veal and lamb soups, should be this color.
Okras gives a green color to soup.
To color soup red, skin six red tomatoes, squeeze out the seeds, and
put them into the soup with the other vegetables--or take the juice
only, as directed for spinach.
For white soups, which are of veal, lamb or chicken, none but white
vegetables are used; rice, pearl barley, vermicelli, or macaroni, for
thickening.
Grated carrot gives a fine amber color to soup; it must be put in as
soon as the soup is free from scum.
Hotel and private-house stock is quite different.
Hotels use meat in such large quantities that there is always more or
less trimmings and bones of meat to add to fresh meats; that makes
very strong stock, which they use in most all soups and gravies and
other made dishes.
The meat from which soup has been made is good to serve cold thus:
Take out all the bones, season with pepper and salt, and catsup, if
liked, then chop it small, tie it in a cloth, and lay it between two
plates, with a weight on the upper one; slice it thin for luncheon or
supper; or make sandwiches of it; or make a hash for breakfast; or
make it into balls, with the addition of a little wheat flour and an
egg, and serve them fried in fat, or boil in the soup.
An agreeable flavor is sometimes imparted to soup by sticking some
cloves into the meat used for making stock; a few slices of onions
fried very brown in butter are nice; also flour browned by simply
putting it into a saucepan over the fire and stirring it constantly
until it is a dark brown.
Clear soups must be perfectly transparent, and thickened soups about
the consistency of cream. When soups and gravies are kept from day to
day in hot weather, they should be warmed up every day, and put into
fresh-scalded pans or tureens, and placed in a cool cellar. In
temperate weather, every other day may be sufficient.