In giving "dinners," the apparently trifling details are of great
importance when taken as a whole.
We gather around our board agreeable persons, and they pay us and our
dinner the courtesy of dressing for the occasion, and this reunion
should be a time of profit as well as pleasure. There are certain
established laws by which "dinner giving" is regulated in polite
society; and it may not be amiss to give a few observances in relation
to them. One of the first is that an invited guest should arrive at
the house of his host at least a quarter of an hour before the time
appointed for dinner. In laying the table for dinner all the linen
should be a spotless white throughout, and underneath the linen
tablecloth should be spread one of thick cotton-flannel or baize,
which gives the linen a heavier and finer appearance, also deadening
the sound of moving dishes. Large and neatly folded napkins (ironed
without starch), with pieces of bread three or four inches long,
placed between the folds, but not to completely conceal it, are laid
on each plate. An ornamental centre-piece, or a vase filled with a few
rare flowers, is put on the centre of the table, in place of the large
table-castor, which has gone into disuse, and is rarely seen now on
well-appointed tables. A few choice flowers make a charming variety in
the appearance of even the most simply laid table, and a pleasing
variety at table is quite as essential to the enjoyment of the repast
as is a good choice of dishes, for the eye in fact should be gratified
as much as the palate.
All dishes should be arranged in harmony with the decorations of the
flowers, such as covers, relishes, confectionery, and small sweets.
Garnishing of dishes has also a great deal to do with the appearance
of a dinner-table, each dish garnished sufficiently to be in good
taste without looking absurd.
Beside each plate should be laid as many knives, forks and spoons as
will be required for the several courses, unless the hostess prefers
to have them brought on with each change. A glass of water, and when
wine is served glasses for it, and individual salt-cellars may be
placed at every plate. Water-bottles are now much in vogue with
corresponding tumblers to cover them; these, accompanied with dishes
of broken ice, may be arranged in suitable places. When butter is
served a special knife is used, and that, with all other required
service, may be left to the judgment and taste of the hostess, in the
proper placing of the various aids to her guests' comfort.
The dessert plates should be set ready, each with a doily and a
finger-glass partly filled with water, in which is dropped a slice of
lemon; these with extra knives, forks and spoons, should be on the
side-board ready to be placed beside the guest between the courses
when required.
If preferred, the "dinner" may all be served from the side-table, thus
relieving the host from the task of carving. A plate is set before
each guest, and the dish carved is presented by the waiter on the
left-hand side of each guest. At the end of each course the plates
give way for those of the next. If not served from the side-table, the
dishes are brought in ready carved, and placed before the host and
hostess, then served and placed upon the waiter's salver, to be laid
by that attendant before the guest.
Soup and fish being the first course, plates of soup are usually
placed on the table before the dinner is announced; or if the hostess
wishes the soup served at the table, the soup-tureen, containing hot
soup, and the warm soup-plates are placed before the seat of the
hostess. Soup and fish being disposed of, then come the joints or
roasts, entrees (made dishes), poultry, etc., also relishes.
After dishes have been passed that are required no more, such as
vegetables, hot sauces, etc., the dishes containing them may be set
upon the side-board, ready to be taken away.
Jellies and sauces, when not to be eaten as a dessert, should be
helped on the dinner-plate, not on a small side dish as was the former
usage.
If a dish be on the table, some parts of which are preferred to
others, according to the taste of the individuals, all should have the
opportunity of choice. The host will simply ask each one if he has any
preference for a particular part; if he replies in the negative, you
are not to repeat the question, nor insist that he must have a
preference.
Do not attempt to eulogize your dishes, or apologize that you cannot
recommend them--this is extreme bad taste; as also is the vaunting of
the excellence of your wines, etc., etc.
Do not insist upon your guests partaking of particular dishes. Do not
ask persons more than once, and never force a supply upon their
plates. It is ill-bred, though common, to press any one to eat; and,
moreover, it is a great annoyance to many.
In winter, plates should always be warmed, but not made hot. Two kinds
of animal food, or two kinds of dessert, should not be eaten off of
one plate, and there should never be more than two kinds of vegetables
with one course. Asparagus, green corn, cauliflower and raw tomatoes
comprise one course in place of a salad. All meats should be cut
across the grain in very thin slices. Fish, at dinner, should be baked
or boiled, never fried or broiled. Baked ham may be used in every
course after fish, sliced thin and handed after the regular course is
disposed of.
The hostess should retain her plate, knife and fork, until her guests
have finished.
The crumb-brush is not used until the preparation for bringing in the
dessert; then all the glasses are removed, except the flowers, the
water-tumblers, and the glass of wine which the guest wishes to retain
with his dessert. The dessert plate containing the finger-bowl, also a
dessert knife and fork, should then be set before each guest, who at
once removes the finger-bowl and its doily, and the knife and fork to
the table, leaving the plate ready to be used for any dessert chosen.
Finely sifted sugar should always be placed upon the table to be used
with puddings, pies, fruit, etc., and if cream is required, let it
stand by the dish it is to be served with.
To lay a dessert for a small entertainment and a few guests outside of
the family, it may consist simply of two dishes of fresh fruit in
season, two of dried fruits and two each of cakes and nuts.
Coffee and tea are served lastly, poured into tiny cups and served
clear, passed around on a tray to each guest, then the sugar and cream
passed that each person may be allowed to season his black coffee or
café noir to suit himself.
A family dinner, even with a few friends, can be made quite
attractive and satisfactory without much display or expense;
consisting first of good soup, then fish garnished with suitable
additions, followed by a roast; then vegetables and some made dishes,
a salad, crackers, cheese and olives, then dessert. This sensible
meal, well cooked and neatly served, is pleasing to almost any one,
and is within the means of any housekeeper in ordinary circumstances.