In the selection of meat it is most essential that we understand how
to choose it; in beef it should be a smooth, fine grain, of a clear
bright red color, the fat white, and will feel tender when pinched
with the fingers. Will also have abundant kidney fat or suet. The most
choice pieces for roast are the sirloin, fore and middle ribs.
Veal, to be good, should have the flesh firm and dry, fine grained and
of a delicate pinkish color, and plenty of kidney fat; the joints
stiff.
Mutton is good when the flesh is a bright red, firm and juicy and a
close grain, the fat firm and white.
Pork, if young, the lean will break on being pinched smooth when
nipped with the fingers, also the skin will break and dent; if the
rind is rough and hard it is old.
In roasting meat, allow from fifteen to twenty minutes to the pound,
which will vary according to the thickness of the roast. A great deal
of the success in roasting depends on the heat and goodness of the
fire; if put into a cool oven it loses its juices, and the result is a
tough, tasteless roast; whereas, if the oven is of the proper heat, it
immediately sears up the pores of the meat and the juices are
retained.
The oven should be the hottest when the meat is put into it, in order
to quickly crisp the surface and close the pores of the meat, thereby
confining its natural juices. If the oven is too hot to hold the hand
in for only a moment, then it is right to receive the meat. The roast
should first be washed in pure water, then wiped dry with a clean dry
cloth, placed in a baking pan without any seasoning; some pieces of
suet or cold drippings laid under it, but no water should be put
into the pan, for this would have a tendency to soften the outside of
the meat. The water can never get so hot as the hot fat upon the
surface of the meat, and the generating of the steam prevents its
crispness, so desirable in a roast.
It should be frequently basted with its own drippings, which flow from
the meat when partly cooked, and well seasoned. Lamb, veal and pork
should be cooked rather slower than beef, with a more moderate fire,
covering the fat with a piece of paper, and thoroughly cooked till
the flesh parts from the bone, and nicely browned, without being
burned. An onion sliced and put on top of a roast while cooking,
especially roast of pork, gives a nice flavor. Remove the onion before
serving.
Larding meats is drawing ribbons of fat pork through the upper surface
of the meat, leaving both ends protruding. This is accomplished by the
use of a larding needle, which may be procured at house-furnishing
stores.
Boiling or stewing meat, if fresh, should be put into boiling water,
closely covered and boiled slowly, allowing twenty minutes to each
pound, and, when partly cooked, or when it begins to get tender,
salted, adding spices and vegetables.
Salt meats should be covered with cold water, and require thirty
minutes very slow boiling, from the time the water boils, for each
pound; if it is very salt, pour off the first water and put it in
another of boiling water, or it may be soaked one night in cold water.
After meat commences to boil the pot should never stop simmering and
always be replenished from the boiling tea-kettle.
Frying may be done in two ways. One method, which is most generally
used, is by putting one ounce or more (as the case requires) of beef
drippings, lard or butter into a frying pan, and when at the boiling
point lay in the meat, cooking both sides a nice brown. The other
method is to completely immerse the article to be cooked in
sufficient hot lard to cover it, similar to frying doughnuts.
Broiled meats should be placed over clear, red coals free from smoke,
giving out a good heat, but not too brisk, or the meat will be
hardened and scorched; but if the fire is dead the gravy will escape
and drop upon the coals, creating a blaze, which will blacken and
smoke the meat. Steaks and chops should be turned often, in order that
every part should be evenly done--never sticking a fork into the lean
part, as that lets the juices escape; it should be put into the outer
skin or fat. When the meat is sufficiently broiled it should be laid
on a hot dish and seasoned. The best pieces for steak are the
porterhouse, sirloin and rump.